If you’re heading to Cuba, you will most likely start your journey at the capital city of Havana.  This city is arguably one of the most memorable and captivating cities in the world with its colorful buildings, salsa dancing, and classic cars.  Like most Americans, this was my first idea of Cuba.

But on the western end of the island you will find a true gem called the Viñales Valley (Valle de Viñales). This region offers views of some of the most beautiful and scenic landscape of the Pinar del Rio Province.  Here you see endless fields of green tobacco and fertile red soil in the Valley of the Vineyards. If you are a nature lover, Viñales is a must-do stop while visiting Cuba.

Travelers come to Viñales to take incredible nature walks, explore caves, as well as learn the art of making cigars.  Here, one can experience rural life in Cuba and soak up its natural beauty.  There is so much to see and do in Viñales, but during my 2020 trip, I decided to revisit the valley on a single day excursion.

Just in case you’re wondering, the drive to Viñales from Havana is about 2.5 hours. But believe me it’s well worth the long drive. I recommend spending two full days here, as the countryside is a pleasant change from the hustle and bustle of the city. I normally travel to Viñales in a private charter bus as a trip organizer. However, my recent valley journey was a solo day trip.

I suggest sharing the transportation cost with other travelers as Cuba transportation can be complex. The Viazul bus from Havana to Viñales cost about $25 USD and takes 3-4 hours. The bus has several stops to make and the road is very narrow once you get closer to the country. At the bus station you won’t find many vintage taxis as these tend to operate mainly in town. Fortunately for me, my Cuban contact was able to arrange a $50 shared ride for the day.  In Cuba, car ownership is considered a luxury and most cars are passed down in the family.  And since tourism is the main source of income, many people use their car for private transfers.  So I had the pleasure of riding in a cool vintage 1958 Chevy all day!

Once we emerged from the traffic of Havana, we entered a new land of tobacco fields and little wooden houses.  Our first stop in Viñales was at the infamous “Mirador Los Jazmines”.  Here you can soak up an amazing panoramic view of the famous Mogotes.

Cuba was once covered by limestone (karst), which has mostly eroded away leaving steep rounded mountains.  These mountains are called mogotes, which means “haystacks”.  In Viñales, some of these mogotes have caves and are over 900 feet tall.  You will only find similar landscaping in Vietnam and Laos, so this is something you don’t want to miss.

The second stop of the day was La Cueva Del Indio (The Indian Cave Viñales). Here you will transcend back in history as you learn about a 1000-year-old cave and native Cuban culture of the first people of Viñales. The tour route begins with walking through the cave and ends by boat, navigating through the San Vicente River. This is a very popular tour and in high season you may arrive to find a hundred people already waiting in line.  So it’s a good idea to take this tour early enough to beat the crowds.

There are plenty of restaurants in Viñales as the location is a popular tourist spot.  In the downtown area you can find a variety of restaurants that combine Spanish, African, Italian, or Chinese flavors with popular Cuban dishes.  But there is nothing like a traditional organic meal on a farm.  Some of my personal farm favorites are Finca Paraiso Agroecologico and Finca Raul Reyes.  The food simply tastes better and has a freshness from the purity of the ingredients that we cannot get back home in Cali.

During this trip, I had the pleasure of tasting dishes at Paladar “El Sabor”, owned by a Cuban entrepreneur named Kirenia.  The table set-up was behind her bed and breakfast house and the food was Amazing!  You can expect plantains, yucca, chicken, pork, fish, vegetables, rice & beans, freshly squeezed juice, and of course mojitos.  The food was so fresh and flavorful, and there was plenty to pass around.  So, you will not leave hungry!

After lunch, we arrived to our humble farm where the tobacco grows.  There are several plantations in the area where you can stop and learn how to grow, dry and prepare tobacco before rolling it into a cigar.  This is always the perfect place to purchase your cigars.  However, I don’t smoke, so I usually just purchase cigars as souvenirs for family and friends.
But during this trip, I planned on checking off a bucket list item. On this day, I had my very first horse ride!  You can only imagine how excited I was to jump on the saddle of a tame and gentle horse.  There is no more authentic way to experience Viñales than riding horseback through fields of tobacco.

Our final stop of the day was a visit to the Mural de la Prehistoria (Mural of Prehistory).  Here you can admire a magnificent piece of art!  It took Leovigildo Gonzalez Morillo four years (and 18 artists) to complete this 660-feet tall painting in the 1960s.   His mogote canvas consists of a snail, dinosaurs, sea monsters and humans, to symbolize the theory of evolution.  One of the most picturesque and grand murals seen from Instagramable Viñales.

And near this beautiful site, there is a restaurant and bar where you can enjoy a delicious Piña Colada with rum to taste. Mmmm, it’s a splendid way to enjoy a nice cool cocktail before the long ride back to Havana.

Of course, I would have loved to stay a bit longer in Viñales, but Havana was calling me back. But I invite you to experience a deeper love of the Valley. I invite you to take home the perfect photo of a Viñales sunset. There are many evening activities that allow for stunning views of the valley’s limestone cliffs. Just imagine sipping on mojitos or eating farm to table while watching the sun fall below the valley. As the sun sets, the light fades, symbolizing the end of the day. If they say Havana is the heartbeat of Cuba, then a beautiful Viñales sunset must be the Soul of Cuba